Lokum
Turkish Daily News
“Uskudar'e gider iken bir mendil buldum
Mendilimin icine de lokum doldurdum
Katibimi arar iken yanimda buldum…”
“On my way to Uskudar I found a handkerchief
I filled my handkerchief with lokum
While looking for my lover I found him at my side…”
This became a world-famous song thanks to it being sung by the one and only Eartha Kitt. Hearing her singing it in person with that lovely purring voice of hers years later at the Istanbul Hilton Hotel with other admirers was a particular pleasure.
Did the song also make lokum world famous? Probably not, since it was already known throughout the world as the delightful chewy candy it is.
Lokum is also particularly popular at the end of the Ramadan period with its Sugar Holiday, during which it is a tradition to offer something sweet to visitors, including the children who come to the door to kiss your hand.
Several different stories are told about how lokum became famous. One has it that an Ottoman sultan got tired of biting down on hard candy and chipping a tooth. Usually this hard candy, called "akide" in Turkish, came as a gift from the elite Janissary military corps. If the bargaining over salary hikes pleased the Janissaries, they would offer the sultan a plate of akide. However, tired of the jawbreakers, the sultan ordered his servants to find a soft candy. In comes Haci Bekir, who had opened a small shop in the Eminonu area where he made candy, including a soft one whose recipe he had brought from his village near Kastamonu in eastern Turkey. It so met the sultan's fancy that he named Haci Bekir, who was only Bekir Efendi at the time, to be the chief confectioner at the palace. The haci part of his name signifies that he went on pilgrimage to Mecca at some time in his life.
Another story goes that Haci Bekir was so successful in marketing his lokum to the many palace employees and government officials who lived in the area, and especially the harem women, that the sultan took notice and named him the chief confectioner.
Third story, anyone? The sultan wanted to have something totally new created to please his harem and sent word around about what he wanted. Haci Bekir offered his candy and won the sultan's favor.
The stories also relate to how these lokum pieces were carried in special lace handkerchiefs as word got around in society that this candy was an ideal gift to take when visiting. And as you can see from the Uskudar song, the memory of that tradition lingers on although today you will probably have to settle for a box instead of a handkerchief.
The origin of lokum:
What do we know about the history of lokum? Much of it seems to have been lost over time; however, most agree that it was known in Anatolia by the 14th century. The word lokum itself is derived from Arabic and so one can expect that its origin lies there. The noun, lokum, is related to eating; it has been said that lokum means “we are eating.” The Arabic version of the sweet that we know as lokum today comes from an Arabic phrase, "rahablakum" or "rahat ul-hulkum" (to relax the throat). Some still say today in Turkish it should be rahat lokum or as some would translate it, “a comfortable morsel” or “we have eaten contentment.” The Greeks, who most likely got it early on from the Ottoman Empire, which included today's Arab nations, call it loukoumiadis. It is not the same as the one produced in Turkey since they put their own stamp on it.
But enough of esoteric but interesting etymologies!
Perhaps you may have wondered how lokum came to be known as Turkish delight in the West. It seems a British traveler was so taken with the candy that he took a case of it home with him -- another source suggests he took cases of it with him to London -- but who's to know. And there seems to be no agreement over whether this was the 18th or the 19th century. Anyway, this traveler, whose name has been lost to history, introduced it to British society as Turkish delight, and there you have it.
What is this precious candy? Bekir Efendi arrived from Kastamonu with copper cooking pots and a secret recipe. He established his small confectionery store on Hamidiye Street in Eminonu, only a couple of streets away from Yeni Camii. That was 1776. We do know the recipe has changed over the years since he won over the Ottoman palace, usually because new products such as refined sugar became available. As far as can be ascertained, the family of Haci Bekir handed down all the traditions as well as the business from father to son until the 1970s, when the sons died before their father did and the daughter and her husband took over the business. But the chain has not been broken and the family has gone on to provide lokum all over the world.
Well, not all over the world. Americans actually learned to eat lokum because an Armenian family in the eastern part of Washington state in the U.S. began to make it there. Good apple-growing country encouraged the family to use the excess in making lokum or, as they called it, applets and from there they moved on to cottlets (made from oranges). That was many decades ago, but it has become a popular and durable item.
The original recipe seems to be very similar to the one used in Arab countries: honey, grape molasses (pekmez) and flour. But as soon as refined sugar was introduced to the world, Haci Bekir began using it to create a different product and a different taste. And as other food products came available, he was foresighted enough to see the advantage of making changes to his products as did succeeding generations of his family.
Today the recipe includes water, sugar, cornstarch, cream of tartar and rosewater. After the ingredients are cooked, they are poured into a flat pan that has been greased with almond oil. Then it is sprinkled with powdered sugar and cut into cube shapes. Today actually, you do not need to buy the lokum made with rosewater since many other things are added to the product that appeal to different people's tastes. There are walnuts, pistachios, oranges, almonds, clotted cream and even chocolate. At Haci Bekir, there are at least 20 varieties. The secret apparently is in the heating, which has to be done precisely because if it stays cooking too long, it hardens or if too short a time, it loses shape when cooling. If stored at room temperature, it will stay fresh for six months.
It is actually not very complicated; you can do it yourself at home. But why not buy it from one of the stores that sell it? They are no longer confined to Haci Bekir, although that is the original, and a gift of lokum from Haci Bekir is always a welcome one in Turkish homes. Turks tend to eat it at teatime or after dinner with Turkish coffee or tea.
Most places that sell candy will also be able to sell you an ample selection of lokum, or Turkish delight. But you might get seduced into buying chocolates at places like the Gezi Patisserie, The Marmara Hotel Café or the Divan Pastry Shop. Do not let yourself be tempted too much.
If you have time, you should go to Eminonu, where the original Haci Bekir store has been restored. You will be overwhelmed by the most marvelous colors and varieties of candies and other sweets. The building itself has been restored to its original form inside so customers can feel themselves transported back in time to the 19th century.
A recipe:
The following lokum (Turkish Delight) recipe is from the Free Recipes on-line site and was taken from “Eastern Mediterranean Cooking.” This appears to be very close to the original Haci Bekir recipe.
The recipe serves six.
Ingredients:
2 ½ cups water
3/4 cup grape juice or orange juice
4 cups sugar
1 tbsp cream of tartar
1 cup cornstarch
A few drops of red food coloring (optional)
Oil
Powdered sugar
Instructions:
Bring the water to a boil, add the sugar and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Mix the cornstarch with the juice and cream of tartar. Gradually pour into the boiling syrup, stirring constantly. Continue cooking for 20 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Add the food coloring.
Oil a 7-inch-square cake pan with sides 1-1½ inches high. Pour the mixture in and allow to stand until cool and set.
Cut into one-inch squares. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.
Hint: The mixture should feel soft but firm after cooling.
“Uskudar'e gider iken bir mendil buldum
Mendilimin icine de lokum doldurdum
Katibimi arar iken yanimda buldum…”
“On my way to Uskudar I found a handkerchief
I filled my handkerchief with lokum
While looking for my lover I found him at my side…”
This became a world-famous song thanks to it being sung by the one and only Eartha Kitt. Hearing her singing it in person with that lovely purring voice of hers years later at the Istanbul Hilton Hotel with other admirers was a particular pleasure.
Did the song also make lokum world famous? Probably not, since it was already known throughout the world as the delightful chewy candy it is.
Lokum is also particularly popular at the end of the Ramadan period with its Sugar Holiday, during which it is a tradition to offer something sweet to visitors, including the children who come to the door to kiss your hand.
Several different stories are told about how lokum became famous. One has it that an Ottoman sultan got tired of biting down on hard candy and chipping a tooth. Usually this hard candy, called "akide" in Turkish, came as a gift from the elite Janissary military corps. If the bargaining over salary hikes pleased the Janissaries, they would offer the sultan a plate of akide. However, tired of the jawbreakers, the sultan ordered his servants to find a soft candy. In comes Haci Bekir, who had opened a small shop in the Eminonu area where he made candy, including a soft one whose recipe he had brought from his village near Kastamonu in eastern Turkey. It so met the sultan's fancy that he named Haci Bekir, who was only Bekir Efendi at the time, to be the chief confectioner at the palace. The haci part of his name signifies that he went on pilgrimage to Mecca at some time in his life.
Another story goes that Haci Bekir was so successful in marketing his lokum to the many palace employees and government officials who lived in the area, and especially the harem women, that the sultan took notice and named him the chief confectioner.
Third story, anyone? The sultan wanted to have something totally new created to please his harem and sent word around about what he wanted. Haci Bekir offered his candy and won the sultan's favor.
The stories also relate to how these lokum pieces were carried in special lace handkerchiefs as word got around in society that this candy was an ideal gift to take when visiting. And as you can see from the Uskudar song, the memory of that tradition lingers on although today you will probably have to settle for a box instead of a handkerchief.
The origin of lokum:
What do we know about the history of lokum? Much of it seems to have been lost over time; however, most agree that it was known in Anatolia by the 14th century. The word lokum itself is derived from Arabic and so one can expect that its origin lies there. The noun, lokum, is related to eating; it has been said that lokum means “we are eating.” The Arabic version of the sweet that we know as lokum today comes from an Arabic phrase, "rahablakum" or "rahat ul-hulkum" (to relax the throat). Some still say today in Turkish it should be rahat lokum or as some would translate it, “a comfortable morsel” or “we have eaten contentment.” The Greeks, who most likely got it early on from the Ottoman Empire, which included today's Arab nations, call it loukoumiadis. It is not the same as the one produced in Turkey since they put their own stamp on it.
But enough of esoteric but interesting etymologies!
Perhaps you may have wondered how lokum came to be known as Turkish delight in the West. It seems a British traveler was so taken with the candy that he took a case of it home with him -- another source suggests he took cases of it with him to London -- but who's to know. And there seems to be no agreement over whether this was the 18th or the 19th century. Anyway, this traveler, whose name has been lost to history, introduced it to British society as Turkish delight, and there you have it.
What is this precious candy? Bekir Efendi arrived from Kastamonu with copper cooking pots and a secret recipe. He established his small confectionery store on Hamidiye Street in Eminonu, only a couple of streets away from Yeni Camii. That was 1776. We do know the recipe has changed over the years since he won over the Ottoman palace, usually because new products such as refined sugar became available. As far as can be ascertained, the family of Haci Bekir handed down all the traditions as well as the business from father to son until the 1970s, when the sons died before their father did and the daughter and her husband took over the business. But the chain has not been broken and the family has gone on to provide lokum all over the world.
Well, not all over the world. Americans actually learned to eat lokum because an Armenian family in the eastern part of Washington state in the U.S. began to make it there. Good apple-growing country encouraged the family to use the excess in making lokum or, as they called it, applets and from there they moved on to cottlets (made from oranges). That was many decades ago, but it has become a popular and durable item.
The original recipe seems to be very similar to the one used in Arab countries: honey, grape molasses (pekmez) and flour. But as soon as refined sugar was introduced to the world, Haci Bekir began using it to create a different product and a different taste. And as other food products came available, he was foresighted enough to see the advantage of making changes to his products as did succeeding generations of his family.
Today the recipe includes water, sugar, cornstarch, cream of tartar and rosewater. After the ingredients are cooked, they are poured into a flat pan that has been greased with almond oil. Then it is sprinkled with powdered sugar and cut into cube shapes. Today actually, you do not need to buy the lokum made with rosewater since many other things are added to the product that appeal to different people's tastes. There are walnuts, pistachios, oranges, almonds, clotted cream and even chocolate. At Haci Bekir, there are at least 20 varieties. The secret apparently is in the heating, which has to be done precisely because if it stays cooking too long, it hardens or if too short a time, it loses shape when cooling. If stored at room temperature, it will stay fresh for six months.
It is actually not very complicated; you can do it yourself at home. But why not buy it from one of the stores that sell it? They are no longer confined to Haci Bekir, although that is the original, and a gift of lokum from Haci Bekir is always a welcome one in Turkish homes. Turks tend to eat it at teatime or after dinner with Turkish coffee or tea.
Most places that sell candy will also be able to sell you an ample selection of lokum, or Turkish delight. But you might get seduced into buying chocolates at places like the Gezi Patisserie, The Marmara Hotel Café or the Divan Pastry Shop. Do not let yourself be tempted too much.
If you have time, you should go to Eminonu, where the original Haci Bekir store has been restored. You will be overwhelmed by the most marvelous colors and varieties of candies and other sweets. The building itself has been restored to its original form inside so customers can feel themselves transported back in time to the 19th century.
A recipe:
The following lokum (Turkish Delight) recipe is from the Free Recipes on-line site and was taken from “Eastern Mediterranean Cooking.” This appears to be very close to the original Haci Bekir recipe.
The recipe serves six.
Ingredients:
2 ½ cups water
3/4 cup grape juice or orange juice
4 cups sugar
1 tbsp cream of tartar
1 cup cornstarch
A few drops of red food coloring (optional)
Oil
Powdered sugar
Instructions:
Bring the water to a boil, add the sugar and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Mix the cornstarch with the juice and cream of tartar. Gradually pour into the boiling syrup, stirring constantly. Continue cooking for 20 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Add the food coloring.
Oil a 7-inch-square cake pan with sides 1-1½ inches high. Pour the mixture in and allow to stand until cool and set.
Cut into one-inch squares. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.
Hint: The mixture should feel soft but firm after cooling.