Dry walling sheet
8x4 plasterboards not a problem .but not sure if they have the rebait on ,but that is not a problem if you tape the joint.
8x4 plasterboards not a problem .but not sure if they have the rebait on ,but that is not a problem if you tape the joint.
Dry walling sheet
Have a look at ""boardex " these boards seem to be being used everywhere!
Have a look at ""boardex " these boards seem to be being used everywhere!
ted j
Member
Dry walling sheet
It must be
The guy next door had it done (very messy and the top edges where it came out further than the cornice were awful)
(Our villas have a fancy cornice around all interior walls,
on the walls where curtains should go, it is stepped away from the wall, so curtain runners can be screwed to the ceiling behind)
It was fine on those walls, but stuck out proud on the (flush) walls
The guy next door had it done (very messy and the top edges where it came out further than the cornice were awful)
(Our villas have a fancy cornice around all interior walls,
on the walls where curtains should go, it is stepped away from the wall, so curtain runners can be screwed to the ceiling behind)
It was fine on those walls, but stuck out proud on the (flush) walls
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Dry walling sheet
What are you trying to achieve?
Drywalling a dry wall is fine and moisture-resistant board is preferred IMHOi n properties that will be empty for long periods but remember its Moisture-Resistant not moisture-proof.
The preferred way to dry line a structure is to install a ventilated cavit membrain behind the stud work and to use gyprock metal framework as a support then overboarding with plasterboard.
Insulation is simple, just use jablite sheets in front of the ventilated membrane & behind the stud work. Never use jablite direct against the wall as condensation will run down the back of the board and come out at the floor wall joint. Using a ventilated membrane rather than a sheet membrane prevents this as long as ventilation is available behind the membrane
Another way to do it is to use Thermal Board which is plaster board with foil backing bonded to a polystyrene layer usually 35mm or 50mm thick
Platon type cavity membrane is defo available in Turkey as i specked it for a basement in a friend's villa It was also much cheaper than in the UK.
I am a building surveyor specializing in damp and condensation and I design these installations regularly on large and small scale.
contact me with your Email if you want more detailed information on the specification I am recommending and ill send over the litrature
Drywalling a dry wall is fine and moisture-resistant board is preferred IMHOi n properties that will be empty for long periods but remember its Moisture-Resistant not moisture-proof.
The preferred way to dry line a structure is to install a ventilated cavit membrain behind the stud work and to use gyprock metal framework as a support then overboarding with plasterboard.
Insulation is simple, just use jablite sheets in front of the ventilated membrane & behind the stud work. Never use jablite direct against the wall as condensation will run down the back of the board and come out at the floor wall joint. Using a ventilated membrane rather than a sheet membrane prevents this as long as ventilation is available behind the membrane
Another way to do it is to use Thermal Board which is plaster board with foil backing bonded to a polystyrene layer usually 35mm or 50mm thick
Platon type cavity membrane is defo available in Turkey as i specked it for a basement in a friend's villa It was also much cheaper than in the UK.
I am a building surveyor specializing in damp and condensation and I design these installations regularly on large and small scale.
contact me with your Email if you want more detailed information on the specification I am recommending and ill send over the litrature
Dry walling sheet
Hi Chasey,
I am talking to a german neighbour who does very good building & repair work about getting my semi-d summer house insulated. He has done his with EXTERNAL cladding. House is circa 1978 with no damp proof liner. Have you a preference in internal Vs external insulation?
Tnx
Bren in Kusadasi
I am talking to a german neighbour who does very good building & repair work about getting my semi-d summer house insulated. He has done his with EXTERNAL cladding. House is circa 1978 with no damp proof liner. Have you a preference in internal Vs external insulation?
Tnx
Bren in Kusadasi
IbrahimAbi
Grey wisdom
Dry walling sheet
External is neater, as mentioned by an earlier poster, if you clad internally (with mantolama), you cannot get the top of the sheets (where it meets the ceiling) neat, also what happened to all of your light switches and electrical sockets?
Dry walling sheet
The issue for many is properties that where built without a damp proof course the middle deal cost that is rendered into external panel doesn't allow the walls to breath and the moisture finds its way through the interior wall.
If been looking at camp proof cream that is pumped into the matter between bricks but it doesn't seem to be available in Turkey.
Which is very surprising.
The issue for many is properties that where built without a damp proof course the middle deal cost that is rendered into external panel doesn't allow the walls to breath and the moisture finds its way through the interior wall.
If been looking at camp proof cream that is pumped into the matter between bricks but it doesn't seem to be available in Turkey.
Which is very surprising.
yalimart
The Carnwath Massive
Dry walling sheet
The external insulation stops lateral damp and internal condensing on outer walls, The was a member called Nonem on here who was selling some kind of damp prevention injection system, I think he got lynched.
Martin
The external insulation stops lateral damp and internal condensing on outer walls, The was a member called Nonem on here who was selling some kind of damp prevention injection system, I think he got lynched.
Martin
Dry walling sheet
We do such installations all the time and where there's a cornice the cornice needs to be replaced over the installed thermal board
Plugs are easy just use long screws same for light switches but often you need to drop them 50mm to get enough cable slack to rewire them
There's also a system called ultra Therm which is much thinner. Its pretty good but very expensive.
Ultrotherm ? Internal Insulation System for Solid Walls
We use it on walls where we cant get away with 50mm board
We do such installations all the time and where there's a cornice the cornice needs to be replaced over the installed thermal board
Plugs are easy just use long screws same for light switches but often you need to drop them 50mm to get enough cable slack to rewire them
There's also a system called ultra Therm which is much thinner. Its pretty good but very expensive.
Ultrotherm ? Internal Insulation System for Solid Walls
We use it on walls where we cant get away with 50mm board
Dry walling sheet
DPC fluid (water bassed Damp Proof Course) is the most effective product for proper brickwork. It has a siliconate structure which turns to a solid on contact with salts found in the ground. However if theres no proper poor structure it will never work
Remember DPC fluids and creams are poor liners not poor blockers. DPC fluid applied as a surface coating to an external wall will simply lubricate the water going into the wall and make it worse. The poor lining required for an efective DPC is measured in 1000s of a mm (Microns)
Water repelents like Thompsons water seal are a MUCH higher grade of silicone and are designed to reduce the poor size in a structure to a dimension what allows water vapor through but not physical water. They are very tricky to use correctly and are usually solvent bassed and can damage all sorts of things especially nearby parked cars
DPC cream i the new best thing but I struggle with it. The system is injected into mortar beds using a mastic gun so an easy DIY fix but the whole "vapor phase" spread concept seems a bit far fetched to me. Many of the cheaper ones were proven to have insufficient active ingredients to actually work? conditions for it to work are IMHO limiting.
Generally in the industry Safeguard Chemicals is considered a good product and its often rebadged.
https://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone-system/dryzone-damp-proofing-cream
Where i do like the cream based products is on external walls. The storm guard is much easier and safer to apply than solvent based water repellents.
https://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/stormdry-system
IMPORTANT
Remember if you water proof a wet wall externally using a vapor reducing or vapor proof product the water has only one way to go. Inwards to the internal plaster.
A wall at 8% moisture content + (typical of rainwater penetration) means 8% of the physical weight of the wall is free water. That's a LOT of water.
Try to do external waterproofing/cladding etc at the end of a long hot dry spell
ATB
DPC fluid (water bassed Damp Proof Course) is the most effective product for proper brickwork. It has a siliconate structure which turns to a solid on contact with salts found in the ground. However if theres no proper poor structure it will never work
Remember DPC fluids and creams are poor liners not poor blockers. DPC fluid applied as a surface coating to an external wall will simply lubricate the water going into the wall and make it worse. The poor lining required for an efective DPC is measured in 1000s of a mm (Microns)
Water repelents like Thompsons water seal are a MUCH higher grade of silicone and are designed to reduce the poor size in a structure to a dimension what allows water vapor through but not physical water. They are very tricky to use correctly and are usually solvent bassed and can damage all sorts of things especially nearby parked cars
DPC cream i the new best thing but I struggle with it. The system is injected into mortar beds using a mastic gun so an easy DIY fix but the whole "vapor phase" spread concept seems a bit far fetched to me. Many of the cheaper ones were proven to have insufficient active ingredients to actually work? conditions for it to work are IMHO limiting.
Generally in the industry Safeguard Chemicals is considered a good product and its often rebadged.
https://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/dryzone-system/dryzone-damp-proofing-cream
Where i do like the cream based products is on external walls. The storm guard is much easier and safer to apply than solvent based water repellents.
https://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/stormdry-system
IMPORTANT
Remember if you water proof a wet wall externally using a vapor reducing or vapor proof product the water has only one way to go. Inwards to the internal plaster.
A wall at 8% moisture content + (typical of rainwater penetration) means 8% of the physical weight of the wall is free water. That's a LOT of water.
Try to do external waterproofing/cladding etc at the end of a long hot dry spell
ATB
